Finish Line!

“The trouble with jogging is that the ice falls out of your glass.” ~Martin Mull

The moment I pack my suitcase for a journey, I am perfectly resigned about two things.  One – that I will not deprive myself of any gastronomic delight or opportunity to drink champagne while watching a sunset (or sunrise).  And two, possibly in response to one, I will pack my running shoes.

Beyond the obvious physical benefits, running in the morning while on holiday allows me to profoundly experience the soul of a place – through my soles, as it were.  Running through the streets before the sun has even risen is such a pure and intimate moment.  I gain more understanding of the local culture in this hour then often, in the entire journey.

But most certainly, the memorable upside of this cardio-excursion is the frequency of moments when you think to yourself, “If I hadn’t run, I wouldn’t have seen…”

…the elephant walking in the middle of a crowded boulevard in Phnom Penh on her way to her morning ablutions…

…the drag queens precipitously walking home from the all-night Mardi Gras party in Sydney, heels broken, make-up running and feather boas looking listless and slightly anemic…

…the street vendors shuffling their carts over the cobblestone streets in Florence, while the mist over the Arno gives way to streaks of salmon, pink and orange …

…the sound of the waves gently pounding the beach in Sayulita as surfers wade into the water, half-asleep yet ever-hopeful that today they will catch the perfect wave…

…the  elders, with their colorful umbrellas and spry joints practicing tai-chi in a small, peaceful park in the middle of Hong Kong.

Perhaps it’s the attainment of that elusive, thoroughly-addictive, mind-altering endorphin rush that contributes to the feeling of perfect peace that envelopes me when I run.  When on foreign soil, this experience can be transcendental, heightening my senses and connecting me to a culture in ways I never thought possible.  And on a more secular note, when I run while on holiday, I get to eat cheese.  And bread.  And dessert.

Following are 6 of my favorite routes that bring me eternal joy (and stronger legs) each and every time I have the opportunity to run them.

1. Hong Kong – Mid-levels/Victoria Peak

Lugard Road, Victoria Peak

If you’re in shape, good for you.  Run up to the top of Victoria Peak via the Old Peak Road.  Otherwise, do what I do, and take the funicular to the top.

At the top, take Lugard Road, the oh-so narrow road that circles the peak.  The homes are spectacular, nearly rivaling the panoramic view of the Harbour.  The jungle feel and dense foliage create an enchanted atmosphere in the early morning, with the fog firmly settled in.  What I didn’t expect, and I think those who haven’t been to Hong Kong wouldn’t expect as well, is that in stark contrast to the chaos that is Hong Kong, the back side of the island is dense forest as far as the eye can see.  It is this paradox – bustle and soul, that grabs you and for me, makes Hong Kong spectacular and totally unexpected.

Head back down the Old Peak Road, where you will pass some grand old Colonial homes in various states of disrepair, as if lost in time and taken over by jungle.   Head into  Soho (in this case, South of Hollywood), and stop for a coffee at any number of delightful cafes on Staunton Street. 

Tip: When running down through Mid-Levels, its a kick to get onto the escalator, which looks like a habitrail, on its morning one-way-only route down into town.

Tip #2:  DO eat at The Peak Lookout restaurant on Victoria Peak.  The ambiance is romantic – tables set outside on the deck, trees festooned with fairy lights – Sinatra playing quietly in the background.  You will seriously wonder what year it is.  And when the fog begins to creep in around 9:00 PM, it is absolute magic.

Sydney Botanic Gardens - My Vortex

2.  Sydney

When I found myself frequently questioning the Gods as to why I had jumped ship from my normal life in L.A. and regrouped in Australia…when the fear and anxiety threatened to send me into yet another panic attack of titanic proportions, I would put on my running shoes and head to the Botanical Gardens.  If it weren’t for this spot and for Crowded House, my constant and singular musical companions, I’m not sure I would have made it.

I like to start the run  just under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  Run through the Rocks towards Circular Quay.  Follow the Quay to the Opera House and then into the Botanical Gardens – follow the path to Mrs Macquarie’s chair carved into a block of stone.  This is where she used to sit, admiring the view  and waiting waiting waiting for her husband, Governor Macquarie to return from sea.  This is a very special place for me – religious, really.  Sometimes I would have to wait for people to enjoy it before I could take my turn to sit.  But I always sat, willing Elizabeth Macquarie’s spirit to protect me and guide me through a difficult time.  I have no doubt she did.

Continue back through the Botanical Gardens (stop to smell the roses!) to Macquarie street, past the Parliament House of NSW, then into Hyde Park, up Oxford Street to Centennial Park, where you could get lost for days.  Run back, or better yet, wander around Woollahra and Paddington and head to the Elephant Bar at the Royal Hotel in Five Ways and have a glass of Veuve.

Tip:   If you time it for a Saturday, you may catch the famous Paddington Market on Oxford Street.  Great art, clothes, decorative things, leather goods – I have found many unusual goodies here.

3. Santa Monica

Santa Monica Stairs - Glute Hell

So many great places to run in this area.  Along the beach past the Venice Boardwalk to the Marina.  Along Ocean Avenue, with its palm trees and gorgeous ocean views.  We all have our favorite routes.  I’m partial to running along San Vicente Blvd, probably because I grew up in Brentwood, and have run this street to the beach, with its grassy median, all of my life.  Alone, with friends, with my dogs, with one of my mom’s husbands (#2) and of late, with my AIDS group in training for the Florence marathon.  An added bonus, if you take it all the way to Ocean Ave and hang a right on Adelaide, you can have the distinct yet painful pleasure (no pain no gain) of doing the famous “stairs” that descend the hill to West Channel Rd.  Your glutes will thank you.  Tip: If you take San Vicente back into town from the beach, stop at the famous red Brentwood Country Mart on the corner of 26th and San Vicente.  When you go through the doors, you’ll come into an interior patio with a wood burning fire pit that has been there as long as I have been around. (It’s old!)  They still do a mean cheeseburger and you can eat around the fire pit.  Divine!

Anse de Saline - Starting Point

4. St Barths

OK – THIS is a tricky one, and not for the inexperienced runner.  St Barths is Hilly with a capital H.  H-squared, really, if you count Heat.  Not to mention the fact that the roads are narrow, windy and steep – a calamitous scenario for drivers, let alone those of us trying to get some exercise while along side of them.   My cousin Doug has sussed out the best running route (bearing in mind the island is only 8 square miles).  He starts at Anse de Gran Saline and heads inland, where there is only a little grade and more importantly, a larger road with grass alongside.   This gently slopes up as you come to the fork in the road, where you veer left towards Lorient. Hit the beach in Lorient, turn around and head back to Saline, where you can have an amazing breakfast at Le Grain de Sel.  Honestly, this is about the only place I can think of, other than past Toiny along Grand Fond, that is relatively flat and where you don’t risk getting taken out by a Suzuki Jimny driven by a tourist with a death wish. 

Tip #1:  Run in the morning – it can get really baking hot otherwise.

Tip #2:  If one wanted to finish one’s run at Anse de Gran Saline and one were of the mind to take a quick swim in that glorious ocean in the buff, one could do so here.  Of course, I couldn’t comment on that.

5. Phnom Penh

Sambo on her way to a bath

The key here is to get up really early to do this run – around 5:30 AM,  so that you can end up along the river  in time to see Sambo on her way to or from her morning ablutions.  It’s quite a sight.  We stayed at the Pavilion Hotel (only place to stay – hands down), so I would start from those welcoming gates, hang a left to Street 240, make a right and head down to the river.   Definitely do a quick circle around Wat Batum where you can see the Achy Breaky Dance Group doing their best Billy Rae Cyrus routine, totally bizarre in every way.  Head north (er, west) via Sisowith Quay, past the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, past the FCC, and take a left and head back up into town.  Get back to the hotel, jump into the pool and then stake your table around the pool for what is one of the best breakfasts ever.

Tip:  While running Street 240, stop to window shop at Jasmine Boutique – you will lose your mind.  Unbelievably gorgeous silk clothes with a contemporary point of view.

Running in Firenze while Jules hams it up

6.  Firenze

Having successfully completed a marathon in this fair city, I can say without hesitation that I did not like running in this otherwise agreeable town.  Cobblestones, quite frankly, are hell on the ankles.   Still, a route along the Arno on the Lungarno Corsini from the Palazzo Corsini past the Ponte Vecchio up to the Piazzale Michelangelo, with the most amazing view of the city, is not too taxing, and completely worth the journey.  Heaven. 

Tip:  Don’t even try to run in town around the Piazza della Signoria or the Palazzo Vecchio. If the cobblestones don’t kill you, trying to weave your way through the throngs of tourist will.  Not worth it!

Happy trails!

Don’t Do What I Did!  Another Oops! Travel Moment.

I am thrilled, though appropriately embarrassed, to introduce my first “Don’t Do What I Did” (DDWID)  oops! travel moment.  While this little gem is a new addition to my fairly extensive body of work, I confess it’s grown on me.

One recent afternoon in Phnom Penh, my husband and I were wandering the streets when we came upon a “club” with the name of “LOVE ORANGE”.  Given my love of all things orange, I took this as a good omen, and asked my husband to take a quick photo of me standing next to the name on the front door.  Oops!

Posing in front of the club entrance, I’m running through this manic, stream-of-consciousness internal monologue that goes something like this, “How random to have stumbled across a place called “LOVE ORANGE”!  What a coincidence!  I mean, hellooo!!  I love orange!  I have orange luggage, for God’s sake.  It’s definitely a sign from the universe.  Maybe it means I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be in my life.  Maybe I was destined to come to Phnom Penh at this exact time in my life, and stand in this exact spot.  Maybe I’ve been here before in a past life.  No, maybe I’m supposed to do something in Cambodia.  That’s it.  That’s my destiny.  I’m supposed to move here and…and  start a non-profit and… and help kids.  That’s what it is! I’m sure of it!  I’ll call it “Orange Aid”.  Hey, that’s a good name!  Like Orange Ade, but a-i-d.  God, I’m so clever.  Maybe…Jesus, I’m melting here, take the goddamn photo already, Stuart.”

As I’m standing there, this insane ranting going through my head,  I am completely oblivious to the fact that the bouncer (one can only assume), who apparently is not keen on having photographs taken in front of the club, has opened the door behind me and is angrily gesturing at us to get the hell out of there – at the very moment I am furnishing our new, fabulously-chic  Phnom Penh apartment, no house, no apartment, in my head and trying to appear fresh in the 200% humidity.

While we still don’t know why the whole episode caused such a kerfuffle, we certainly wouldn’t dream of suggesting that the row of black Mercedes parked in front of the “club”, with their tinted

windows, official-looking government plates, and drivers suspiciously watching us like a hawk while waiting for their clients to finish up their delightful, as in sky rockets in flight delightful, afternoon activities, could possibly have had anything to do with it.  Love orange?  Hmmm.

In front of Love Orange

Monks Making their Daily Rounds in Phnom Penh

It was  just announced yesterday the Crescendas Group, a Singaporean consortium representing 21 companies, is looking to sink between $30 and $50 million into tourism in Cambodia.

According to Delegation Head Delegation head Lawrence Leow, deputy honorary secretary of the Singapore Business Federation, “We see the progress, very steady progress in the country…The people are very warm, and the government is very helpful; I think it is good for foreign investments.”

“It depends on the project but I will invest in Cambodia. I’m coming back very soon … to continue my discussion,” he said.

Singapore group eyes investments – The Phnom Penh Post

I’m not at all surprised by all of this investment.  Cambodia is an amazing place, diverse, soulful, rich in culture.  There are many personalities of the country – something for everyone!

Phnom Penh is well on its way to being a very urbane destination, with chic hotels, all manner of bars and restaurants, art galleries, great shops, and diverse population.

Siem Reap, with its tall palm trees and lazy river, has a great feel to it, rounded out by a variety of hotels and a buzzing night life.  Angkor Wat – not really much to say other than the temples will make a profound impression on you.

In the south, the coastal towns  of Kep and Sihanoukville offer a sense of privacy and escape that many people equate to Phuket 30 years ago.  Kep,  the quieter, sleepier of the two areas, with its abandoned French Colonial villas, magnificent in their day, and its amazing, melt-in-your-mouth crab.  Sihanoukville  is more lively and built-up, but the beaches are definitely worth the trip.

Now is the time to visit, no doubt about it.

August 2009

Further to my blog, “Gin and Tonics with a Taser Twist; A tourist’s view of corruption in Cambodia”, I just came across this article in yesterday’s Phnom Penh Post. Perhaps the economic influence that comes from  increased investment in Cambodia’s tourism sector may actually pry the country out of the suffocating grip of government corruption, after all.

Tourism Sector Big Investment Winner – Phnom Penh Post

Anyone who has visited Phnom Penh will be familiar with Sambo, the gorgeous 49-year old girl who toddles into town everyday from Wat Phnom for her morning bath, and toddles back.  I encountered her for the first time last month, when I was in PP and out for my morning run.  The juxtaposition of seeing an elephant lope down a busy street was somewhat of a shock for me, though no more so than seeing the Tai Chi practitioners in front of the Royal Palace side by side the Achy Breaky Dance class.  I quickly fell in love with Sambo, and visited her at her home in Wat Phnom, so was tickled to see this article in the Phnom Penh Post last week.

‘Waiter! I said one elephant BEER’ | Multimedia | The Phnom Penh Post – Cambodia’s Newspaper of Record.

June 2009

In PP, we wouldn’t stay anywhere else. We’re not on a backpackers budget, but don’t necessarily like the rarified isolationism of Raffles (though love the hotel’s famous piano bars), so thought the Pavilion’s brand of low-key chic might fit the bill. It did not disappoint, and we felt like we were staying with friends at their lovely colonial villa.

Unlike others, we did not encounter any problems with reception staff – even in the reservation process, they were responsive and courteous, and even assisted me with some basic Khmer salutations. While there, we found them to be warm and helpful. If anything, non-invasive, which is far preffered to cloying and obtrusive. Sure, a couple of times there wasn’t anyone behind the desk, but you know what, go have a drink by the pool and come back in five minutes. In addition, upon arrival the first day we dropped our bags in the room and rushed out for an afternoon of jet-lagged sight seeing. When we returned to our room, I was touched to see that my things had been unpacked and beautifully put away for me, with shoes lined up and dresses hung. It was an unexpected and thoughtful nicety. We had room 7 with a large balcony overlooking the pool. We found it to be perfect. Everything done in a very clean aesthetic – white walls and linens, dark wood floors, carved mirrors, chunky wooden furniture, even down to interesting ceramic pulls to hold the roman shade cords. Just great style. We also found the bed and pillows to be really comfortable.

Grounds are truly a jungle oasis, well-maintained with the center piece being the simple jade-tiled pool. Funky oversized Tibetan beds with cool, colorful cushion covers are nestled into the palms for a little shade and privacy. We didn’t experience any issues with locals hogging the space, but perhaps we were just lucky or didn’t really care. The little restaurant next to the pool is charming and we found the food to be incredibly fresh, amazing and varied, though we couldn’t get enough of the Khmer food, so never tried any of the many western offerings. Breakfasts were – to us – absolute heaven. The fresh passionfruit juice, fruit, bread and eggs were perfection each morning. I am still dreaming about the bread.

We ended up modifying our itinerary last minute in order to return to the Pavilion after our trip to Siem Reap. One night during this stay, we had to take a small room with two single four-poster beds as the place was booked. While smaller, the room still maintained the understated chic aesthetic of the property, and I was grateful to even get a room at the last minute! In this room (18) we were entranced with the black & white photographs of Afghanistan taken in 1932 by – presumably – a relation of the owner’s. They are scattered throughout that section of the hotel, and are absolutely mesmerizing – don’t miss them. I would also absolutely look into one of the pool rooms.

It may be helpful that we looked at other hotels while in PP to get a feel for comparison. For us, we found the busyness of the river side to be too hectic, thus taking the FCC (tired and tattered catering to tourists), the Quay (nice but pretty modern and not very comfortable) and the Amanjaya out of the running. The Pavilion is also located in a great area – just next to Street 240 – great shopping and funky restaurants.

The reality is that the Pavilion threw a wrench into our subsequent hotel experiences in Cambodia as all we wanted was to come back to our little villa behind the elephants and the white wall.