…and speaking of the aforementioned LAX/Sydney flight, while trolling the aisles of the aircraft that evening, I walked past what I thought was the most fabulous coffin, securely seat-belted into a pod seat, and safe under the watchful eye of a careful guardian, who I naturally assumed was the son of the lovely and clearly petite grandmotherly figure contained therein.

I was immediately hit with two slightly morbid and conflicting thoughts, which sent me off into one of my stream of consciousness monologues, that went something like this.

“What is that?  Oh my God, is that a coffin?  Is that a Louis Vuitton coffin that looks like a steamer trunk?  Euuuu – does that mean  there is a dead body in it?  Is it going to rattle around business class the entire way to Auckland?  Its kind of sticking far out into the aisle.  What if the beverage cart bumps it and the body of – God, it must be a little old lady – a really little old lady – probably a KIWI – so cute.  And this guy – he’s very attractive, isn’t he?  He must be her son.  Or maybe her grandson.  He’s obviously in charge of bringing granmum home.  Oh, that’s so sad.  I bet they were so close.  What a good guy.  He really is very good looking though – looks very windswept with the chapstick lips and tan face. Like a sailor.  Hey, we’re sailors, too, I say.  Really, he asks?  What kind of a boat?  A sailboat of course, I replied, completely oblivious to what I was saying as the internal stream of consciousness monologue kicked  into high gear.

“I have GOT to have a Louis Vuitton coffin. I mean, I’m the only one I know that wants to be buried, not cremated.  I’m not great with fire and the last thing I want is to be scattered in a bazilliion pieces. No way.  Being buried is much more civilized, though everyone else will be cremated, so I guess I wouldn’t really see anyone, which is a drag.  Still, I know where I want to be buried (Montecito cemetary for any family members who might be reading this.)  Preferably under a tree.  Facing the ocean, for sure.  And with a bench – not a marble or stone one – gotta be wood.  With a gold plaque dedicated to me.  Something understated – ish.”

Realizing I had nothing more to say to the son, or grandson, and was beginning to involuntarily yet discreetly sniff around the coffin to catch either granmum’s  perfume or the death odor, I thought it best to carry on back to my seat, um, pod (gotta get used to that).  I couldn’t wait to tell  Stuart about my discovery and fabulous new idea to have a Louis Vuitton steamer trunk as a coffin like the little old woman back in aisle 11 has, who quite possibly, now that I think about it, could have been an acrobat.  Or a circus performer.  Predictably, upon hearing my enthusiastic whining for an LV coffin, Stuart shook his head and groaned, doing a spot-on imitation of Lurch from The Addams Family.  He then turned his eyes to the heavens, as though pleading for celestial assistance to send down a planet to fall on my head.  “Darling”, said my husband, in his snobbiest British accent, “that is not a coffin for a little old lady Kiwi acrobat circus performer.  That trunk contains the America’s Cup trophy, on its way back to Auckland.”  “Ohhhhhh.  Are you sure”, I asked, not completely convinced, though that did explain the grandson’s yacht club polo shirt and boat shoes.    Turns out Stuart was absolutely right, and we were flying with the America’s Cup trophy (an excellent omen as planes never go down when there is something as significant as the America’s Cup trophy on board).  And as we sped through the night sky, I meticulously mapped out plans for my Louis Vuitton-themed funeral, which I know will be fabulous.

While working the LA Art Show last week, I met a group of really great people, affiliated with Fabrik Magazine – a 2-year old small-format magazine widely distributed in the LA Area.  This is a magazine that supports local artists and galleries, and they appear to be loved in return.

“FABRIK magazine covers Los Angeles art, design, architecture, and fashion in a manner as distinctive as it is thorough. A journal of lively coverage and commentary on the art and design scene(s) in America’s new cultural capital, Fabrik also provides extensive directories that list all – all – the best local outlets for new forms, ideas, and expressions in diverse media and disciplines.”

We were invited to attend the closing of their Project One: 5 Artists exhibit last night, and would happily go to anything they put on.  The taste of artists showing was vast, with something for most tastes.  We happen to really like the people involved with Fabrik, and look forward to supporting them in their upcoming endeavors.

PROJECT ONE: 5 ARTISTS
December 5, 2009 – January 30, 2010
This exhibit contains work by emerging and established contemporary artists.  We were impressed!

Matteo

In addition to the video installation pieces by Matteo, which will blow your mind – completely sensoral as you look at a beautiful, organic wood base with glass squares through which a custom video plays, showing images and colors that draw you in.  And in.  Brilliant, artist.  You will see his pieces on a much larger scale in hip hotels and restaurants all around the world.  I guarantee it.

Leaning a little more on the side of slightly off-beat, we both really like Randall Ingalls photographs.

Randall Ingalls

Photographer

A fine art photographer based in Petaluma, California. Randall graduated from Art Center College of Design and set up his studio in an old church, he and his wife bought and renovated. His emphasis is fine art photography with leanings towards editorial print.

Luc Leestemaker
Painter

Luc Leestemaker was born in the Netherlands and moved to the US in 1990. Living and working in the US created a stylistic journey that would take him from early inspiration by the CoBrA movement; through densely abstract expressionist compositions; to the “Inner Landscape” and “Transfigurations” Series, inspired both by Mark Rothko and 17th and 18th Century Dutch and English landscape painters (notably Constable, Ruysdael, Van Goyen). Recently he has also exhibited newly abstracted series of works, titled “Voyager” and “Map of the Wind.”

Mark Brosmer
Painter

Raised in Indiana, Mark Brosmer now resides in Los Angeles where he creates paintings that depict fascinating dreamscapes: a world where the real and unreal fill the canvas equally. Brosmer is an artist whose work consciously reflects the elements of earth, air and water. These poetic illusions stretch the imagination and welcome contemplation. The simplicity of each work is expressed with clarity but at the same time encourages the mind to explore beautiful and entertaining visual puzzles.

Alexandra Becket
Textile Artist

Alexandra Becket creates one-of-a kind hand-painted fabric wall hangings, inspired by modernist architecture and the landscape of California.  Alexandra was born and raised in Los Angeles, from a family rooted in design and architecture.  Her grandfather, architect Welton Becket, designed some of Los Angeles’s most iconic buildings, including Capitol Records,  the LAX Theme and many others.

Steven Janssen
Painter

Steven Janssen was born in Los Angeles and loved to draw since the age of four. Always doodling and never paying attention in class, he quickly developed a passion for the arts. In school he won numerous awards for student exhibits, and participated in his first formal group show at, then, the Otis Parsons School of Design in 1983. Moving on to college, Steven graduated with a B.F.A in life drawing and painting as his focus, from Cal State University Long Beach in 1994. Having worked in the art department for a small production company gave Janssen the opportunity to create works for Showtime, TLC, ABC and The Golden Globes. His works have also shown in numerous exhibits at galleries, in tv shows, and feature films.

Finish Line!

“The trouble with jogging is that the ice falls out of your glass.” ~Martin Mull

The moment I pack my suitcase for a journey, I am perfectly resigned about two things.  One – that I will not deprive myself of any gastronomic delight or opportunity to drink champagne while watching a sunset (or sunrise).  And two, possibly in response to one, I will pack my running shoes.

Beyond the obvious physical benefits, running in the morning while on holiday allows me to profoundly experience the soul of a place – through my soles, as it were.  Running through the streets before the sun has even risen is such a pure and intimate moment.  I gain more understanding of the local culture in this hour then often, in the entire journey.

But most certainly, the memorable upside of this cardio-excursion is the frequency of moments when you think to yourself, “If I hadn’t run, I wouldn’t have seen…”

…the elephant walking in the middle of a crowded boulevard in Phnom Penh on her way to her morning ablutions…

…the drag queens precipitously walking home from the all-night Mardi Gras party in Sydney, heels broken, make-up running and feather boas looking listless and slightly anemic…

…the street vendors shuffling their carts over the cobblestone streets in Florence, while the mist over the Arno gives way to streaks of salmon, pink and orange …

…the sound of the waves gently pounding the beach in Sayulita as surfers wade into the water, half-asleep yet ever-hopeful that today they will catch the perfect wave…

…the  elders, with their colorful umbrellas and spry joints practicing tai-chi in a small, peaceful park in the middle of Hong Kong.

Perhaps it’s the attainment of that elusive, thoroughly-addictive, mind-altering endorphin rush that contributes to the feeling of perfect peace that envelopes me when I run.  When on foreign soil, this experience can be transcendental, heightening my senses and connecting me to a culture in ways I never thought possible.  And on a more secular note, when I run while on holiday, I get to eat cheese.  And bread.  And dessert.

Following are 6 of my favorite routes that bring me eternal joy (and stronger legs) each and every time I have the opportunity to run them.

1. Hong Kong – Mid-levels/Victoria Peak

Lugard Road, Victoria Peak

If you’re in shape, good for you.  Run up to the top of Victoria Peak via the Old Peak Road.  Otherwise, do what I do, and take the funicular to the top.

At the top, take Lugard Road, the oh-so narrow road that circles the peak.  The homes are spectacular, nearly rivaling the panoramic view of the Harbour.  The jungle feel and dense foliage create an enchanted atmosphere in the early morning, with the fog firmly settled in.  What I didn’t expect, and I think those who haven’t been to Hong Kong wouldn’t expect as well, is that in stark contrast to the chaos that is Hong Kong, the back side of the island is dense forest as far as the eye can see.  It is this paradox – bustle and soul, that grabs you and for me, makes Hong Kong spectacular and totally unexpected.

Head back down the Old Peak Road, where you will pass some grand old Colonial homes in various states of disrepair, as if lost in time and taken over by jungle.   Head into  Soho (in this case, South of Hollywood), and stop for a coffee at any number of delightful cafes on Staunton Street. 

Tip: When running down through Mid-Levels, its a kick to get onto the escalator, which looks like a habitrail, on its morning one-way-only route down into town.

Tip #2:  DO eat at The Peak Lookout restaurant on Victoria Peak.  The ambiance is romantic – tables set outside on the deck, trees festooned with fairy lights – Sinatra playing quietly in the background.  You will seriously wonder what year it is.  And when the fog begins to creep in around 9:00 PM, it is absolute magic.

Sydney Botanic Gardens - My Vortex

2.  Sydney

When I found myself frequently questioning the Gods as to why I had jumped ship from my normal life in L.A. and regrouped in Australia…when the fear and anxiety threatened to send me into yet another panic attack of titanic proportions, I would put on my running shoes and head to the Botanical Gardens.  If it weren’t for this spot and for Crowded House, my constant and singular musical companions, I’m not sure I would have made it.

I like to start the run  just under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  Run through the Rocks towards Circular Quay.  Follow the Quay to the Opera House and then into the Botanical Gardens – follow the path to Mrs Macquarie’s chair carved into a block of stone.  This is where she used to sit, admiring the view  and waiting waiting waiting for her husband, Governor Macquarie to return from sea.  This is a very special place for me – religious, really.  Sometimes I would have to wait for people to enjoy it before I could take my turn to sit.  But I always sat, willing Elizabeth Macquarie’s spirit to protect me and guide me through a difficult time.  I have no doubt she did.

Continue back through the Botanical Gardens (stop to smell the roses!) to Macquarie street, past the Parliament House of NSW, then into Hyde Park, up Oxford Street to Centennial Park, where you could get lost for days.  Run back, or better yet, wander around Woollahra and Paddington and head to the Elephant Bar at the Royal Hotel in Five Ways and have a glass of Veuve.

Tip:   If you time it for a Saturday, you may catch the famous Paddington Market on Oxford Street.  Great art, clothes, decorative things, leather goods – I have found many unusual goodies here.

3. Santa Monica

Santa Monica Stairs - Glute Hell

So many great places to run in this area.  Along the beach past the Venice Boardwalk to the Marina.  Along Ocean Avenue, with its palm trees and gorgeous ocean views.  We all have our favorite routes.  I’m partial to running along San Vicente Blvd, probably because I grew up in Brentwood, and have run this street to the beach, with its grassy median, all of my life.  Alone, with friends, with my dogs, with one of my mom’s husbands (#2) and of late, with my AIDS group in training for the Florence marathon.  An added bonus, if you take it all the way to Ocean Ave and hang a right on Adelaide, you can have the distinct yet painful pleasure (no pain no gain) of doing the famous “stairs” that descend the hill to West Channel Rd.  Your glutes will thank you.  Tip: If you take San Vicente back into town from the beach, stop at the famous red Brentwood Country Mart on the corner of 26th and San Vicente.  When you go through the doors, you’ll come into an interior patio with a wood burning fire pit that has been there as long as I have been around. (It’s old!)  They still do a mean cheeseburger and you can eat around the fire pit.  Divine!

Anse de Saline - Starting Point

4. St Barths

OK – THIS is a tricky one, and not for the inexperienced runner.  St Barths is Hilly with a capital H.  H-squared, really, if you count Heat.  Not to mention the fact that the roads are narrow, windy and steep – a calamitous scenario for drivers, let alone those of us trying to get some exercise while along side of them.   My cousin Doug has sussed out the best running route (bearing in mind the island is only 8 square miles).  He starts at Anse de Gran Saline and heads inland, where there is only a little grade and more importantly, a larger road with grass alongside.   This gently slopes up as you come to the fork in the road, where you veer left towards Lorient. Hit the beach in Lorient, turn around and head back to Saline, where you can have an amazing breakfast at Le Grain de Sel.  Honestly, this is about the only place I can think of, other than past Toiny along Grand Fond, that is relatively flat and where you don’t risk getting taken out by a Suzuki Jimny driven by a tourist with a death wish. 

Tip #1:  Run in the morning – it can get really baking hot otherwise.

Tip #2:  If one wanted to finish one’s run at Anse de Gran Saline and one were of the mind to take a quick swim in that glorious ocean in the buff, one could do so here.  Of course, I couldn’t comment on that.

5. Phnom Penh

Sambo on her way to a bath

The key here is to get up really early to do this run – around 5:30 AM,  so that you can end up along the river  in time to see Sambo on her way to or from her morning ablutions.  It’s quite a sight.  We stayed at the Pavilion Hotel (only place to stay – hands down), so I would start from those welcoming gates, hang a left to Street 240, make a right and head down to the river.   Definitely do a quick circle around Wat Batum where you can see the Achy Breaky Dance Group doing their best Billy Rae Cyrus routine, totally bizarre in every way.  Head north (er, west) via Sisowith Quay, past the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, past the FCC, and take a left and head back up into town.  Get back to the hotel, jump into the pool and then stake your table around the pool for what is one of the best breakfasts ever.

Tip:  While running Street 240, stop to window shop at Jasmine Boutique – you will lose your mind.  Unbelievably gorgeous silk clothes with a contemporary point of view.

Running in Firenze while Jules hams it up

6.  Firenze

Having successfully completed a marathon in this fair city, I can say without hesitation that I did not like running in this otherwise agreeable town.  Cobblestones, quite frankly, are hell on the ankles.   Still, a route along the Arno on the Lungarno Corsini from the Palazzo Corsini past the Ponte Vecchio up to the Piazzale Michelangelo, with the most amazing view of the city, is not too taxing, and completely worth the journey.  Heaven. 

Tip:  Don’t even try to run in town around the Piazza della Signoria or the Palazzo Vecchio. If the cobblestones don’t kill you, trying to weave your way through the throngs of tourist will.  Not worth it!

Happy trails!

We are big fans of the documentary in our house, as our Netflix queue reveals.  Having a teenager, we certainly see our share of churned-out, hyped-up Hollywood action flicks, don’t get me wrong.  But the movie nights that seem to resonate with us are those spent engaged in lives and issues – some very sophisticated and complex – presented in such a personal way that we can’t help but be affected – sometimes extremely so.  Without exception, these films have expanded our cultural I.Q., sparked new dialogue as a family and given us much to think about as conscientious global citizens.

Our list of favorites rated 1-5 suitcases includes:

Blindsight (2006)  

Six blind Tibetan teenagers set off on a gripping adventure as they attempt to climb the 23,000-foot Lhakpa Ri on the north side of Mount Everest. Considered cursed in Tibetan culture, blind children are often hidden away to live as pariahs. Determined to challenge that perception, the kids gear up for a demanding expedition led by climber Erik Weihenmayer — the first blind man to scale Everest — and learn some lessons about life along the way.

BOS note:  These kids are so determined and inspiring – this is one of our top picks.  Purchase the DVD at their website Blindsight, and 20% of the proceeds go to Braille Without Borders.

Running the Sahara (2008) 

America’s Charlie Engle,   Canada’s Ray Zahab and Taiwan’s Kevin Lin embark on an unprecedented quest to traverse the entire Sahara desert — on foot. Along the way, the runners encounter the beauties and hardships that accompany modern African life. Narrated by Matt Damon, the heart-pumping documentary tracks the athletes on their unbelievable journey through Senegal, Mauritania, Mali, Niger, Libya and Egypt.

BOS note:  These three guys put themselves through absolute living hell – so far beyond missing toenails and blisters.  Their journey is epic.  If they can cross a continent, we can surely walk around the block.  C’mon!!

Born Into Brothels (2004) 

British filmmaker Zana Briski’s Oscar-winning documentary is a portrait of several unforgettable children who live in Calcutta’s red-light district, where their mothers work as prostitutes to ensure their survival. Spurred by the kids’ fascination with her camera, Briski decides to teach them photography. As they begin to look at and record their world through new eyes, the kids awaken to their own talents and sense of worth.

BOS notes:  This is incredibly powerful and emotional – difficult to watch at parts, but that’s India.  As with “Blindsight”, this is another example of the resilience of kids.

Up the Yangtze (2007) 

When the Three Gorges Dam makes life hard for the Yu family, daughter Yu Shui must take a job aboard a cruise ship, where she enters into a dizzying microcosm of modern China. Meanwhile, her parents face the rising waters of the Yangtze. Chinese-Canadian filmmaker Yung Chang’s beautifully photographed film of China’s peasant life and cultural upheaval was nominated for Best Documentary for the Independent Spirit Awards.

BOS notes:  I didn’t know about the flooding of the Yangtze prior to the film.  Also – such a stark contrast from the poverty of her family and the shocking (though typically Western) excess of the cruise passengers.

Everest: A Climb for Peace (2008) 

The film chronicles the spectacular journey of 9 ‘peace climbers’ from different faiths and cultures as they attempt to summit Everest. The focus is on Palestinian Ali Bushnaq and Israeli’s Dudu Yifrah and Micha Yaniv, who come together and set aside their differences to forge a path of teamwork and cooperation in an attempt to summit the world’s highest peak. This however, is easier said than done. Their nations have been embroiled in a brutal war for years; each believes they are on the right side of that war and each knows that on Everest the cooperation of your teammate is a matter of life and death.

BOS notes:  Really interesting to see how the extreme difficulty of the mountain slowly breaks down the barriers between the Palestinian and Israeli climbers, ultimately beyond the conflict they share.

Keep the River on Your Right: A Modern Cannibal Tale (1999)

In 1955, Tobias Schneebaum disappeared into the depths of the Peruvian Amazon. A year later, he emerged from the jungle naked and covered in body paint … a modern-day cannibal. Now, follow the stranger-than-fiction tale of Schneebaum’s return to the jungle in 1999, 45 years after his original visit, to reunite with the tribesmen he grew to love and who haunted him for nearly half a century.

BOS note:  This is definitely quirky – Tobias is a character, to say the least, which makes the story even more interesting and entertaining.

Smile Pinki (2008) 

Pinki is a five-year old girl in rural India born desperately poor and with a cleft lip.  The simple surgery that can cure her is a distant dream until she meets Pankaj, a social worker traveling village to village gathering patients for a hospital that provides free surgery to thousands each year. Told in a vibrant verite-style, this real-world fairy tale follows its wide-eyed protagonist on a journey from isolation to embrace.

BOS notes:  This is a beautiful and important film in all respects.  Pinki is captivating and steals your heart.

Death In Gaza (2004) 

Documentarians James Miller and Saira Shah planned to produce an in-depth look at the culture of martyrdom and hate pervading the Middle East. In 2003, they chronicled the lives of three Palestinian adolescents growing up in war-torn Gaza. Miller and Shah also wanted to show the Israeli side of the dispute, but during filming, Miller fell victim to the conflict when Israeli forces killed him.

BOS notes:  Heavy, heavy film – to experience war through the eyes of kids and see the cycle of hate perpetuated should be a major concern for all of us. The fact that James Miller was killed making this film makes the message even more poignant.

Where In The World Is Osama Bin Laden (2008) 

In his directorial follow-up to the breakthrough hit Super Size Me, filmmaker Morgan Spurlock gamely tries to one-up the U.S. government by finding Osama Bin Laden. The wry documentarian reportedly shot more than 800 hours of footage while scouring every nook and cranny of Afghanistan and the Middle East in pursuit of the infamous leader. The film had its much-anticipated world premiere at the 2008 Sundance Film Festival.

BOS notes:  So entertaining – moments of total hilarity.  Memorable quotes – “Yoo hoo!  Osama!” (Spurlock speaking into a cave in Afghanistan).  Even the trailer is funny.Makes me think of Albert Brooks’ classic film, “Looking for Comedy in the Muslim World.”

Daughter from Danang (2002) 

This documentary follows an adopted American woman — one of thousands of Vietnamese children who were separated from their families and flown to America in 1975 — who gets more than she bargained for when she’s reunited with her birth mother. The film emphasizes how much culture, rather than innate physical characteristics, can shape an individual. Winner of the Grand Jury Prize for Best Documentary at the 2002 Sundance Film Festival.

BOS notes:  This is intense – the discomfort Heidi – who is the “All American Girl” raised in Tennessee – feels when meeting her biological mom and family is powerful.  The beauty of her mom’s spirit, never giving up on seeing her daughter, is incredibly touching – just a tragic situation in all.

The Beauty Academy of Kabul (2006)

Proving that vanity and the pursuit of beauty are universal, this 2004 documentary tracks a group of American women (including some Afghan émigrés from the 1980s) who open a beauty school in Afghanistan. Though there are culture clashes aplenty, moments of true kinship also transpire over curling rods and comb-outs as these women from divergent worlds labor in the name physical beauty in director Liz Mermin’s refreshing film.

BOS notes: Such a touching film and good insight into life for women in Afghanistan.  Amazing, strong women.

And because it is so strange and yet so oddly amusing…

Hippie Masala (2006)   

Seeking enlightenment, and perhaps a more profound drug experience, many hippies of the 1960s and ’70s were fascinated with India. The six Westerners in this documentary stayed there, forging new lives in the beautiful country. Cesare found himself in yoga, Robert paints, Hanspeter took up farming and Meera chose solitude, while sisters Erica and Gillian are always looking for the next big party — but all are on a quest to find themselves.

BOS notes:  Bizarre yet amusing – an odd assortment of characters who smoke a lot of hash.