Happy, sweaty girls

SF Marathon Redoux

Stuart, Katarina and I ran the SF Marathon last weekend.  Stuart, God bless him, ran the full marathon.  Kat and I, on the other hand, did not.  We did half – the front half – undoubtedly the most beautiful 13 miles of any marathon I can think of.

The Starting Line is at the Embarcadero.  You run along the piers, past Fishermans Wharf, Fort Mason and the Marina (some nice homes!), past Crissy Field and up into the Presidio (past the abandon and notoriously haunted Officers Club), over the Golden Gate Bridge (which arcs, so you are running up hill for half of it).  Once over the bridge, you turn around at the Scenic Lookout and head back over the Bridge, down thru Baker Beach, then up thru the Richmond, finishing up in Golden Gate Park.

Magnificent!

This is also my first marathon with two glaring changes in strategy:

1.  No walking

T2 with AIDS Project LA, kindly, taught us to run distance through the run/walk method, 5 min run/1 min walk.  Which generally turned to the walk/run method about mile 14, (5 min walk/1 min run) but it got us through relatively unscathed.

This time, I ran the entire time – with the exception of two potty stops, one taking so long I thought I would burst.

2.  No drugs

I confess that a key factor to my surviving two marathons was drugs.  I hold no shame (and no memories, alas) of the experiences.  To qualify – when I ran SF in 2006, my take-it-to-the-bank, pre-race strategy was to take a half of a Vicodin as I ran my first steps out the gate.  Just in case.  Then, half way through, I popped the other half.  In the grand scheme of things, I think it did bupkis, but it gave me confidence.

In the Florence marathon, no Vicodin (though, how I wish I had – a hateful course and even worse day), but ibuprofen a-plenty.  By mile 17, I think I’d popped 8.  Probably another 8 more before the finish.  I am amazed I didn’t sustain internal bleeding.

So – this time, no drugs.  Not one.  No Vicodin.  No ibuprofen.  Just good old fashioned multi-vitamin followed with a generous helping of Glucosamine.  Like pushing a baby out without drugs, this purist strategy would never have been an option in the past.  No way.

Restroom Horrors (warning: not for the weak of stomach)

1.7 miles each way

I would like to lodge a formal complaint against the county of Marin for closing one of their two Ladies restrooms, located at the Scenic Lookout just as you’ve crossed the bridge, during the marathon.  I mean, didn’t they understand that 50,000 runners might – just might – require them to keep both Ladies rooms open? As every runner knows (graphic alert), sometimes things, um, brew with the intake of all that oxygen pumping through your, um, intestines.  I had felt this burst of activity for about 2 miles when I turned into the lookout to use the restroom, (not given to port-a-potties).  This was a grave mistake.  Apparently every other female runner had gotten the same idea, so that the wait was akin to the lines in the ladies room at a concert.  Combined with the fact that one of the restrooms was closed and this one only had about 8 working stalls. Katarina waited outside as I ran in, expecting to run out (no pun, given my colonic state of affairs) in short order.

Post restroom stop

After a 10 minute wait, which is seriously taxing my ability to remain dignified, I rushed the next open stall, closed the door, lifted up the running belt and down the trou.  But wait…the door doesn’t close.  Fabulous!  I am way too far committed at this point.  So, as I am sitting there, one hand holding the door, the other my running belt, getting my business done.  (Is this too graphic?  Sorry!)  Upon completion, I determine I have to now grow another arm in order to grab toilet paper.  Not seeing this happen anytime soon, I decide to bend as far forward as I can to replace the arm that was holding the door shut (against the angry poop-filled mob of women runners) with my head.  The angle is like a swimmer on the block, about to jump into the pool.  I then reach over with my free arm to grab the toilet paper, while trying to keep the door shut and hold my running belt.  This leads to the final insult.  While there are two brand new rolls of toilet paper in the holder, they are in so tightly that I defy anyone to be able to get any sheets off the roll.

You get the idea

So, to recap, I am hunched over like an Olympic swimmer on the blocks, trying to hold the door closed with my head, and getting more frantic as I am losing valuable time.  I start to claw at the toilet rolls out of desperation.  Shreds are coming off onto the floor – it looks like a hamster has made its bed from my roll.  I have now been in the restroom so long, I assume Kat has thought somehow that she missed me and has continued with the run.  Which causes me to claw more desperately at the paper.  And then, it happens.  My phone rings.  Loudly.  Echoing through the restroom.

Mom's CD

And the very best part – the piece de resistance?  The ringtone is my Mom belting out one of her songs (off her CD Footprints in the Sand, available at www.pattycoquillard.com).  All of a sudden, blasting through the restroom at uncomfortably high volume (yet perfect pitch), and to the delight of every woman in that room,

“Holding hands at midnight, ‘neath the Starry Sky.  Nice work if you can get it, and you can get it if you try.”

Of course, I have no more arms to reach into my running bag and grab the phone.  I can only let the lyrics cycle and cycle for what feels like an eternity. I like to think that I can laugh in these situations.  Not the case here.  It was just a horrible, horrible experience. Not such nice work, for sure.

Thankfully, after God knows how long, I finally made it out of the restroom and found Kat, who was entranced listening to the Led Zeppelin cover band’s cover band playing at the lookout.  (This is the SF Marathon, after all!) We took off back over the bridge, now amongst all the chubbies, oldies and otherwise – gasp – slower runners – we had some catching up to do.  And as we made it over and headed into the tunnel taking us into Baker Beach, I heard just the slightest, most faint toot emitting from Katarina, suggesting that it might now be time for her restroom stop.  What can we say?  We’re runners.

Gallery

Agents Nate, Smallz, Stuart and Me (Agent Didgeridoo)

Being a huge fan of scavenger hunts and interactive theater, I was thrilled to discover Shanghai San Francisco, a “walking adventure tour” when Stuart and I were in the city last weekend.  It turned out to be such a fun way of spending a Saturday afternoon – but then, cavorting with shady characters has always been my thing.

The premise of Shanghai San Francisco, a “walking adventure tour” is that the participants (us) are part of a traveling, interactive play in which we are members of a good-guy spy organization called the Committee of Vigilance.  Our mission: to recover one of our agents who is being held hostage by the rival organization, the Bowery Hounds.  In order to find the moll, you must rendezvous at various boîtes and restaurants in North Beach and China Town, where you obtain clues from tipped-in bartenders and actors who give such a convincing performance that your notion of reality is completely turned upside down.

The adventure begins even before the tour starts.  Participants are directed to meet up under a signpost at Coit Tower.  But prior to this, you are contacted on your cell phone by a serious and somewhat ominous-sounding man, who gives you your first set of instructions.

The tour itself takes roughly 2 1/2 hours, goes at a leisurely pace, and has you stopping at various bars or restaurants for a rest, quick nip and exchange of classified information that will propel you to the next meeting place.  But you have to be very careful, as members of the Bowery Gang are all around you, waiting to stop you and intercept the information at any opportunity.

The actors you come across in your travels are totally captivating and never break character as they build upon the drama, disclose information and weave their back-story.  They are brilliant at improvisation, adding layers of plot twists and story details to keep it interesting and challenging, and easily responding to even the most inane questions posed by participants eager to call the actors’ bluff and glean more information.

We found getting Shanghai’d to be huge fun, though a little bit disconcerting as you become suspicious of everyone around you (even your husband).  I learned that I would make a lousy spy.  I have no aptitude for remembering key details and seek to make even the most evil infiltrator feel welcome.  My husband, on the other hand, had a clear (and present) knack for espionage and is probably trading state secrets as we speak.

Visit Shanghai San Francisco for more information.  Highly recommended!

I’ve just returned from a long weekend in San Francisco.  Each time I visit the ‘City by the Bay”,  I am reminded of how intoxicating this town is.  In fact, I will go as far as saying that San Francisco is the most exciting and vibrant city in the U.S., with New Orleans a very close second.  Both are cities with real authenticity and soul, and a slightly unconventional character -  much like my favorite people.

My husband has been commuting from LA to SF for six years now, doing the San Francisco Shuffle, as we call it.  During this period we have culled a list of our favorite things in the city – hotels, restaurants, views, shopping, music, picnic spots.  Following is a list of what we consider to be de rigeur for like-minded, eclectic sorts visiting the “city by the bay.”

Hotels

There is a chain of boutique hotels called Joie de Vivre.  By city standards, they are all well-priced, though some definitely more so than others.  Each property is distinct, charming and full of character, tapping into a particular audience and making a guest feel as if he is surrounded by like-minded travelers.  Most of the hotels offer complimentary wine in the evening, an  entertaining way to shake off the day’s activities and transition into the excitement of a night out in Shakytown.

Following are our favorite JDV and non-JDV hotels:

Galleria Park Lobby

Galleria Park Hotel –Very cool and stylish – recently renovated – big rooms – frette linens!  Eclectic in a silvery, pastel kind of a way.  This hotel has pretty much everything you could want – big rooms, excellent location, great staff, hopping bar with quiet restaurant above, a small gym and a rooftop garden/walking track.  Located close to Union Square and downtown, it is both a commuter’s dream come true, and a great stay for visitors, as well.

Hotel Carlton Lobby

Hotel Carlton – Funky, eclectic and sublimely eco-chic. Modest yet cool and so comfortable.  You get the feel the guests are 20 and 30- somethings – hip, movers and shakers with a collective eco-conscious disposition.  This place is affordable,  sits in the middle of a great Lower Nob Hill neighborhood, and has a really nice, mellow vibe.  Plus, their eco-friendly practices are way ahead of the curve – this is a hotel with a cool conscience.

Hotel Rex Lobby

Hotel Rex –More like a private club or a funky salon in the 1930s.  The colors and decor are warm, comfortable and inviting.  Oil paintings and book shelves line the walls of the lobby cum bar area (excellent bar menu).  Whimsical touches, like lines of poetry stitched into the banquette in the casual, chic French restaurant, remind guests not to take things too seriously.  Certainly Max, the charming and gracious pug mascot of the hotel, paints a picture of an “everyone knows your name” relaxed, literati environment. Union Square area.

Hotel Kabuki Lobby

Hotel Kabuki –Cool Japanese aesthetic – calming not over the top.  Not your Shibuya pop-art scene – more sophisticated.  Eastern & Western influences come together to create a very well-appointed and sleek property, attracting an eclectic mix of guests.  Its Japantown location made it too far for us to consider as a commuter hotel for my husband, however we would definitely give it a try for a weekend.    Nice restaurant and heavenly, well-priced spa.

Harbor Court Lobby

Harbor Court Hotel

This Kimpton property is particularly well-situated in Steuart Street, down in the Embarcadero.  It is a study in metro-chic, with calming tones, modern touches and a sophisticated yet understated vibe.  Rooms are smaller, but who cares – they are well-appointed with gadgets, sheets with a high thread-count and snuggly robes, and oh yeah, a killer view of the water and Bay Bridge.  Sitting in a comfy robe, glass of wine in your hand, watching the fog roll in over Treasure Island while listening to the foghorns is worth the price of admission alone.

Dining

While these choices may not necessarily be featured on the new chichi hot list, they are a few of our mainstays.

Rijsttafel at Borobudur

Indonesian – Borobudur – 700 Post Street (Post & Jones) – Everyone raves about this place and it is truly fantastic.  Recommend doing the Rijsttafel for dinner – well-worth the price.

Slanted Door Exterior

Modern Vietnemese - Slanted Door – Ferry Building.  Despite the hype, the Slanted Door delivers every time.  Get’s crowded so book, and not inexpensive, but consistently good and good location.

Town Hall Restaurant

Great Place for Lunch -The Town Hall – Howard & Fremont – great lunches – best burgers and soup – exposed brick – known for its service – always a good meal – plus, the bill comes discreetly hidden in an old book!

Shanghai 1930 Bar

Chinese Cuisine & Jazz Club – Shanghai 1930 – Steuart Street – truly a restaurant that will transport you back in time.  We have been there several times, and its easy to feel like you’ve left the US.  The classic Chinese fare is good, but it’s really about the ambience and the live music.  The private cigar room isn’t so bad, either.

Cliff House Restaurant

California Cuisine & Killer View – The Cliff House – While you’re cruising around in your GoCar tour, time the trip so you can pop into the Cliff House for a late lunch.  Sure, this is a standard tourist trap, but the view goes for days, and is just as good while sitting at the bar as it is at a fancy table by the window.   Steeped in history, this is always worth the trip.

Farallon Restaurant

Seafood with Fabulous Style  – Farallon – Post Street – Certainly there is no shortage of good seafood in San Francisco, but Farallon is a preference for us.  Perhaps it’s the design, which reminds me of being in a very cool underwater grotto, complete with jellyfish chandeliers.  Truly, the interior of this restaurant is a work of art and testament to the importance of details.   We go for the oysters and the vibe, both of which they do extremely well.

Kuleto's Restaurant

Italian Rustic – Kuletos – located in the Villa Florence Hotel on Powell – this restaurant is always good.  Another one of those places where it’s more fun to saddle up to the bar and just graze over a meal of starters.  Soups are home made.  Anti-pasta salads are  fresh and feature some amazing, unusual additions,which vary from day to day.  Stop in for a late lunch or early dinner.  It’s definitely a great way to take a break from shopping or duck out of the cold.  Great breakfasts, too!

Cocktails

Tommy's Mexican Restaurant

Best Margarita -Tommy’s on Geary – focus group tested among serious local tequila drinkers.  Casual atmosphere and super friendly bartenders who will discuss tequilas and the level of inebriation you are looking to achieve.

Buena Vista Cafe

Irish Coffee – The Buena Vista – Hyde & Beach – is synonomous with Irish Coffee and is about as famous as they come in San Francisco parlance.  Plus, the story of how the Irish Coffee emigrated here is rich with history.  They take their Irish Coffees very seriously!  Plus, its a great place to kill a late afternoon and people watch.  Gets very crowded, so sharing a table is common and half the fun.

Top of the Mark (kitschy photo)

Best Place for View, Cocktails, Live Jazz & Dancing (Plus 4 stars for romantic) – unquestionably, Top of the Mark – The Mark Hopkins on Nob Hill.  Whenever we visit, I feel like I have entered my parents’ era- very grown-up and ever so slightly dated – but in a familiar, well-worn traveler kind of a way. And when I get a chance to dance with my husband to Sinatra or Duke Ellington, my life is just a little bit more fabulous.  Isn’t everyone’s? I like a table on the dance floor so we can literally dance back into our chairs, enormous dorks that we are.  I have heard there’s no cover before 7:30, but who cares, really?  This is a special place for a special night.

E&O Trading Company

Cool, Big Space & Exotic Cocktails – E&O Trading Co. on Sutter is a fun, lively, high- style place with a pretty good happy hour. Try the vodka mojitos – much lighter than Gin and definitely not as painful in the morning.

Attractions

We like to do fun things on a Saturday, especially if we’re in the city with kids and friends.  Sure, museums are amazing in San Francisco, but there’s a certain exuberance in doing something outrageously touristy, especially if it involves small, open vehicles.

GoCar Tours

We discovered those yellow little motorcycle/cars and have done them twice now.  Go Car Tours have three routes they offer for touring the city.  Each route is GPS navigated and there is a “guide” that tells you where to go and what you are seeing.  The Urban Park route is the one to do – so entertaining – you go through Golden Gate Park and see the Tea House and the bison, the Haight, Baker Beach, and it finishes up on Lombard Street.  The “guide” even screams “Wee” when you go through a tunnel.  Seriously – who couldn’t like that?  The tour takes about 3 hours, but you can stop and start whenever you want.  We like to stop at the Cliff House and have lunch.  Or pack a picnic and eat with the bison in Golden Gate Park.  Great fun either way!

Alcatraz Night Tour

I love all things spooky, so the Night tour of Alcatraz is right up my alley.  If you can time it so the weather is cold and foggy (not too difficult), then so much the better.  I defy anyone not to get creeped out while there at night.

Entertainment Resources

San Francisco has so much to offer in terms of entertainment and culture, I feel I have shortchanged myself if I don’t check into what’s happening in the city.  On any given night, you can catch Malawian hip-hop or amazing performance art.  The choices are vast and varied.  The trick is to find out about them.

I like two online sites to prime me for a weekend in the city.

Brown Paper Tickets is an excellent online resource for learning what’s happening in San Francisco, and beyond.  The service fees are minimal and at least 5% of their profits goes to organizations within the communities they serve.  Best of all, when you purchase a ticket through them, you can choose how these proceeds are divided, with the options being Animals, Children, Environment, and Human Rights. LOVE this!

SF Station focuses solely on San Francisco, offering a totally comprehensive listing of everything San Francisco has to offer – from music, clubs, restaurants, art, performances, events and shopping.   This is my first source for finding both mainstream and unusual goings on.

SF Marathon Mile 20 - Stuart, Cooper & Mom (with purse) offering support

Another fun fact of San Francisco – they have a great marathon.  Certainly one of the most beautiful.  Plus, you get to run over the Golden Gate Bridge, which is a kick.  This city is truly exceptional.  Looking forward to being back in a couple of weekends.